Black traditional chikankari embroidery

Types of Chikan Embroidery | The Indian Couture Blog


The Rich Diversity of Chikan Embroidery: Exploring the Various Types and Forms

The Indian subcontinent is home to the traditional needlework known as chikan embroidery, noted for its elaborate designs and fine craftsmanship. Chikan embroidery design comes in various styles and varieties due to the centuries-long development and diversification of this traditional skill.

We shall delve into this blog's rich range of understanding of what is chikan embroidery and examine the various styles and types used today. Even if you are a once-in-a-year enthusiast beginning to explore the world of chikan embroidery in India, these designs and styles will blow your mind.

Types of Chikan Embroidery

Chikan embroidery kurti, which has its roots in Lucknow, India, has developed over time and currently uses a variety of designs and techniques. However, the distinctive design components, stitch patterns, and motifs that distinguish each type of Chikan embroidery make this work of art incredibly varied and alluring.

There are two main types of Chikan Embroidery designs - Geometrical and Floral.

Basis these, over 40 different types and combinations of chikan embroidery stitches have become possible and known to the artisans. We'll take a look at the top 10 most popular.

Phanda Chikan Embroidery Stitch

The phanda stitch is a subset of the chikan embroidery family and is renowned for its intricacy and delicacy. Intricate patterns are worked into small loops on the fabric using a needle and thin cotton or silk thread to create this stitch.

Although phanda is one of the most challenging chikan embroidery stitches to master due to its complexity and delicacy, the resulting needlework is frequently stunning in its attention to detail.

Indian Traditional chikankari embroidery

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Baccha Chikan Embroidery Stitch

Another well-liked form of chikan embroidery kurti involves the creation of tiny, delicate floral motifs with fine threads. This embroidery is distinguished by its delicate and complex appearance. It is frequently done on lighter materials like cotton and silk.

One of the most popular chikan embroidery techniques is baccha, frequently used to adorn sarees, kurtas, and other traditional Indian clothing.

Bakhia Chikan Embroidery Stitch

It has been practised for generations and passed down from generation to generation in the village of Bakhia in North India. Intricate motifs and patterns are punched into the fabric using a small needle and thread.

Patterns that depict flowers and animals are common influences for these designs. All Bakhia Chicken Embroidery is one-of-a-kind since the patterns are never repeated, and the designs are made by hand.

Keel Kangan Chikan Embroidery Stitch

Intricate, detailed, and beautiful artistry are hallmarks of the Keel Kangan style of chikan embroidery. The Hindi word for "nail" or "claw," from which the stitch takes its name, describes its shape well. Keel Kangan is a surface embroidery technique commonly used on sheer textiles like muslin, chiffon, and cotton.

Keel Kangan is frequently used for sarees, lehenga cholis, salwar kameez, and other popular, sophisticated traditional Indian dresses like gharara, sharara, etc.

Indian Traditional chikankari embroidery

Tepchi Chikan Embroidery Stitch

Tepchi is a style of chikan embroidery that entails utilising a combination of running stitches and knotting to create delicate, detailed patterns. By looping the thread back and forth through the cloth, this stitch allows for the creation of elaborate designs.

The Tepchi stitch is commonly employed to create borders or outline or frame more intricate Chikan Embroidery designs because of its relative ease of execution.

Murri Chikan Embroidery Stitch

Murri is a form of hand-stitched needlework. Tiny, thick stitches characterise this intricate needlework style, which results in a mesh-like texture on the fabric. The pattern is made by tying numerous tiny knots in the fabric and then stitching over them with a needle and thread. This method produces a thick, textured finish that is both sophisticated and long-lasting.

Ghaas Patti Chikan Embroidery Stitch

The term "Ghaas Patti" is derived from the Hindi term for "grass border," which describes how this type of needlework is typically used to decorate the edging of fabric or the hem of a garment. Patterns made with this stitch are typically quite complicated and realistic, such as a bouquet of flowers or leaves.

Shadow Work Chikan Embroidery Stitch

A chikan embroidery kurti that combines running stitches and knotting gives the fabric an appearance of depth and shadow. This style of needlework is recognised for its delicate and complex appearance. It is often done on lighter fabrics like cotton and silk.

Shadow work is highly regarded for its exquisite detail and elegance. It is frequently used to create elaborate floral and paisley designs.

Rahet Chikan Embroidery Stitch

Rahet is a style of chikan embroidery that uses running stitches to create elaborate and delicate designs. Muslin, organza, and chiffon are just a few examples of delicate and light fabrics used for this chikan stitching style.

Intricate borders on the necklines, cuffs, and hemlines of chikan kurtis, sarees, and dupattas are frequently embroidered with rahet. This typical chikan embroidery in India calls for the embroiderer to have a great degree of patience and ability because each stitch must be put precisely to produce the desired pattern.

Parsi Chikan Embroidery Stitch

The Parsi community in India is where the traditional Parsi style of chikan embroidery was developed.

To achieve a seamless and flawless finish on the fabric's front side, this chikan embroidery kurti style uses a chain stitch that works on the fabric's backside. To make a chain, a loop is made on the cloth by passing the needle through it, and a thread is then pulled through the loop. A second time, the needle is inserted into the cloth, and the thread is drawn through the loop to form a chain wrapped around the first chain.

This technique is repeatedly used to produce elaborate designs that characterise Parsi chikan embroidery.

Jali Work Chikan Embroidery Stitch

It is a one-of-a-kind embroidery method that produces a lacy and detailed pattern on the fabric. Originating in India during the time of the Mughals, this design is now considered a classic example of the chikan embroidery technique. In English, the word "net" (or "Jali") describes the open, mesh-like pattern achieved by a multitude of tiny stitches.

Typically cotton or silk, the fabric is perforated with thousands of tiny holes before an intricate pattern of intersecting lines is hand-stitched onto the surface. It takes years of effort and talent to master the art of Jali Work.

--- Alternatively, you may wish to take a look at the various types of embroidered suits we offer or browse through them on your own ---

Peacock Chikan Embroidery Stitch

The vivid, multicoloured plumage of the peacock bird inspired this particular kind of chikan embroidery. This kind of chikan embroidery has vivid, bold patterns that frequently employ several colours to form the feathers and other elements of the bird.

The feathers' delicate intricacies and 3D impression are embroidered using various patterns, including chain stitch and satin thread.

Chatai Chikan Embroidery Stitch

The use of flat, straight threads distinguishes chatai from other forms of chikan needlework. For example, the borders or trim for various kinds of chikan work and the creation of geometric or abstract motifs frequently use this kind of stitching.

The embroiderer uses the stitch to produce precise, angular lines that resemble woven matting.

Booti Chikan Embroidery Stitch

A subset of chikan embroidery, booti is distinguished by tiny, circular motifs. This needlework is frequently employed to make intricate and precise patterns and give other chikan work a decorative flair.

The rounded shapes and the details of the motifs are made by the embroiderer using a range of stitches, including chain stitch and satin stitch.

Floral Chikan Embroidery Stitch

Chikan embroidery kurta that uses floral-inspired motifs is referred to as floral embroidery. This stitching is frequently employed to make delicate and detailed patterns and give other kinds of chikan work a hint of the natural world.

The petals and other details of the flowers are created by the embroiderer using a range of stitches, including chain stitch and satin stitch.

Indian Traditional chikankari embroidery

Zari Chikan Embroidery Stitch

The use of metallic thread distinguishes zari from other varieties of chikan embroidery. This embroidery is frequently employed to make intricate and precise motifs and give other chikan work a touch of glitz and sparkle.

The embroiderer uses the metallic thread to produce lines and details that shine out against the cloth, giving the finished product a hint of sophistication and beauty.

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Where to Buy Authentic Chikan Embroidery Designs?

If you are looking to buy authentic chicken embroidery kurtis online, you will come across four places, namely:

  1. Online Ethnic Wear Retailers
  2. Designer Boutiques
  3. Online Marketplaces
  4. Local Boutiques

And the best part is that The Indian Couture is the perfect fit for all of the above. TIC has a team of expert artisans with years of experience. We cohesively work together to design and create a chikan embroidery kurta.

You can check our top chikan embroidery designs here.

Share your requirements to get a customised chikan kurta exclusively for yourself.

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